Matcha is becoming increasingly popular outside of Japan. When did matcha become so popular? Recently, more matcha cafes have opened in New York, suggesting people are recognizing matcha as a healthy drink. Not only is matcha enjoyed as a drink, but matcha ice cream is also loved by many people.
Speaking of matcha ice cream, it reminds me of a story about former President Obama, who fondly recalled eating matcha ice cream in Kamakura-city, Japan as a child.
When he visited Kamakura as president, "Oba Matcha Ice Cream" was sold there. It is a funny name but it is a good naming! However, a friend of mine mentioned that he might not have eaten matcha ice cream, but rather "Ujikintoki (宇治金時)," a traditional dessert of shaved ice topped with sweetened Azuki (小豆)beans and matcha, because matcha ice cream might not have been around at that time.
I don’t know when matcha ice cream gained popularity in Japan, but it likely wasn’t too long ago. However, matcha desserts such as matcha shaved ice have been enjoyed since the Edo period (1603-1868). There’s a theory that Ujikintoki was created by a Sengoku warlord who loved shaved ice. It’s said that the first matcha shaved ice was made by pouring matcha over cane sugar, and Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, who loved sweets, added Azuki bean paste to it. Around the Sengoku period (1467-1590), the way of tea known as the tea ceremony, was established so it’s easy to imagine Samurai drinking matcha, but it’s interesting to think that the Shogun not only drank matcha but also enjoyed matcha desserts.
Azuki beans
As you may know, matcha contains many beneficial nutrients. Azuki beans, the most typical ingredient of Wagashi, are particularly rich in polyphenols, vitamin B9 (folate), copper, fiber, and zinc, plus more. When my brother was in the hospital in Tokyo, azuki mousse was often served as dessert, likely chosen for the nutritional value of Azuki beans.
Azuki beans have been eaten to ward off evil spirits since ancient times in Japan, likely because people recognized their nutritional value long ago. This makes Ujikintoki not just a delicious treat, but also a wonderful healthy dessert with deep cultural roots.
When my friends visited our country house on a very hot summer day, I made Ujikintoki for them. It cooled us down and left us refreshed. It was their first time having Ujikintoki since trying it at Toraya, one of the most famous wagashi shops in Japan, and they said mine was even better. What a wonderful compliment!
If you go to Japan, you should try it. If not, you can also eat it at the Japanese Tea House "Cha-An" in the East Village, NYC. Ujikintoki was traditionally a seasonal dessert in Japan, but these days, it may be served year-round. If you come across it, be sure to give it a try!